The Vespa Diaries

Good Karma

2007-10-26T13:56:00.000+02:00

Last weekend I ran the Race-for-Food in Rome. Though some insist, because of my financial situation, I should be a recipient rather than a donor, I like to run, I like to give back and I love Rome. We had a nice group from the three US embassies in Rome (Italy, Vatican City and the U.N./FAO) and we all braved the frigid temps for a good cause...and we ended up on the cover of the weekly newsletter...can you find me??

And it was such a cool route...past the Colosseum, Circus Maximus, the Terme di Caracalla ancient Roman baths...

Afterwards, we were invited to the Ambassdor-to-the-UN's house for refreshments. That's right! I'm on a first name basis with the Ambassador! And let me tell you...it's a nice place.

Think I'll become an Ambassador.

Come here often?

2007-08-28T13:40:00.000+02:00

Hello hello!

My apologies, friends, for the hiatus. You all are aware of the reasons so I shall not bore you with excuses. If any of you are even checking this that is. I am going to try to get back into the blog thing, though it's not guaranteed. I still don't have internet access at home, so it's a big undertaking, but I miss keeping in touch with everyone this way and I continue to get requests to update this thing so I want to oblige my friends and family.

I bit of what I've been up to since...April is it? Well most importantly, Elyse and Patrick finally got married! The shower and bachelorette parties were big hits, and the wedding was a joyful, peacful and inspiring day, one of the ones you remember forever and that makes a smile always come to your face. I went home to the states for the wedding and also got in some (not enough!) bonding time with the family and local friends...lobster dinner, boat rides, bbqs...it was a true Maine vacation and I loved every minute of it!

I've also taken a couple of trips - to Barcelona once to visit a friend (it was still nice enough to go to the beach, in October!), and to the Dolomites again - where I went porcini mushroom hunting with Carlotta's glorious family.

We found 2 kilos worth! Over 2 days.........among 5 people.....

Mom just came to visit as well!

She stayed a week in Rome, with her good friend Sara. We have a lovely time catching up and exploring Rome together. I got so used to having her here, now it feels like I've lost something without her. But she'll be back I'm sure, and I will be home hopefully sometime around Christmas, so I'll be ok!

Otherwise, it's just business as usual... my job continues to bore, though the commissary family is quite cute. I eat, I sleep, I go out, I have fun...drama ensues! But it's all good! I will post pics soon, now that the updating is out of the way.

So, until next time...which will be soon, I promise, take care and arrivederci!!!

I'm a genius...or are I?

2007-04-01T19:02:00.000+02:00

I got me some culture this weekend. In lieu of photos, I'll include links so you can still get a visual.

It was 70 degrees out and sunny and I walked and I saw and I conquered. You see, I've been on an even tighter budget than usual (about 3.50 per day) and so I've been seeing a whole other side of Rome - the cheapo/free side. This has opened my eyes to so much! Free jazz concerts in villas, sit-down gourmet dinner for 5 euro, the unexpected site Oscar Wilde calls "the holiest place in Rome" (also free), and seeing Rodin's "The Thinker", a Tiziano painting, a Turner painting and a 5,000 year old statue in the same room...free. AND within walking distance.

I discovered the "Casa del Jazz", near Piramide (the approximately 20,000 year old Pyramid about 4 blocks from my house) last weekend and found that they have free concerts/lectures once a week. The current series is the relationship between Jazz and Tango!

Because it was full by the time we got there, we decided to have an aperitivo at nearby Caffe' Emporio . I was freaking at the prospect of spending the 5 euros necessary for a glass of wine but this was no ordinary aperitivo (Italian Happy Hour where a drink usually gets you a trip to a buffet of breads, veggies and chips). Here, you get first a round of fresh veggies and olive oil and also a few plates of individual savory tarts - all brought to your table. This, I was used to from past visits. This time however, they then brought us a dinner portion of one of three choices available from their dinner menu! Polpettone (meatloaf) with roasted potatoes, Pasta with Shrimp and Artichoke or Spinach & Cheese Frittata. It was incredible - I ate and drank for 5 euros, without ever standing up. Then I walked the 30 seconds home.

Friday night I watched Team America. If you haven't seen it, go to your nearest video rental place and rent it - STAT.

Yesterday I took a walk back to the Pyramid but got a new view of it - from the Non-Catholic Cemetery located right behind it. It is a donation-only entry, and once you are inside you are transported to this lush garden of poetry-inscribed stones and cypress trees. Normally cemeteries are creepy, but even Shelley wrote about it "It might make one in love with death, to think that one should be buried in so sweet a place," not long before he drowned in the Italian Riviera and was buried here.

John Keats is also buried here, along with Antonio Gramsci, Goethe's only son, and dozens of diplomats, artists and other VIPs.

Afterwards, I walked to the Palazzo Quirinale to meet Carlotta for the "Masterpieces of European Art" exhibit. Italy's President Napolitano lives here, and in recognition of the EU's 50th anniversary last week, established by the Treaty of Rome in 1957, requested that each of the EU's 27 countries contribute one masterpiece to a show that would "remind Europeans of the cultural values that unite them rather than the political disputes that sometimes divide them." This is how I saw such a unique collection of pieces in one, glorious room. Where else could you see a 3,000 BC Maltese sculpture together with paintings by Tiziano and J.M.W. Turner, or Rodin's "The Thinker" together with a 4th Century Greek vase rescued from traffickers just last year?

The palace is located on the highest of the 7 hills of Rome. I happened to have taken these pictures from there just last fall:

And finally...to put a smile on someone's face, a photo of me and my favorite Italy-travel companion taken in Todi:

Sofia, ti voglio bene!

She did it her way.

2007-03-24T12:39:00.000+01:00

Don't be shy Katy!

We'll miss you for the good times at Karaoke ("I am NOT singing you guys..."):

The endless laughter and interesting prizes won together at Pub Quiz:

...and so much more!

A se vedei

2007-03-24T12:29:00.000+01:00

That's how the mountain people say "Arrivederci"! It was sooooooooooo hard to leave our little oasis in the mountains.

Thank you so much Carlotta, Tiziana and Domenico for one of the best weekends ever!!

And thanks to Katy for all the photos.

Something about that mountain air...

2007-03-24T12:07:00.000+01:00

...makes you really, really hungry. We'd just had a breakfast that was about 18 times the size of the normal breakfast any of us ever has, when Domenico stopped the car in front of a cozy little restaurant near the top.

I for one thought we were stopping for, perhaps, some hot cocoa; I mean, I couldn't eat another bite. But then the polenta arrived with its melted cheese and its mushrooms...

...and then the dishes so local you can only get them here (which also means you HAVE to eat them). Clockwise from the top you have your Canederli, your Spatzle, and your multigrain risotto with crispy speck. In a word, unbelievable...I made Tiziana give me her recipes later on.

Carlotta gets her sweetness from her parents:

...and from these delicious traditional desserts...there were 5 of them. And we finished them all.

I think you can actually see the additional 5 kilos I've gained while here, riiight about...NOW:

Amazing, I think, that I remember the names of the foods but not the mountains. Anyways, it's all worth it. Check out the view:

And finally, the summit:

Buona notte!

Days 2 in the Alps

2007-03-24T11:57:00.000+01:00

Warning...you are going to think these are photos of movie sets, but I assure you they are real.

Ok, the gnome's not real, but aren't they cute together?

Day 1 in the Italian Alps

2007-03-24T11:43:00.000+01:00

Our arrival up north was highlighted by some quality puppy-time with Carlotta's beagle Trudy, a gorgeous speck, robiola and arugula sandwich at the Autogrill (one of my Top 10 Sites in Italy), and a lovely, scenic drive to the Val di Badia.

Carlotta's cookie-cutter parents greeted us with smiles, warmth and snackies (more speck, salami, cheese, breads, jam, sweets...all local of course) before we hit the road again with Domenico at the wheel. He was our absolutely PERFECT driver / dad / tour guide. I'm sure he told us what this particular peak was called but I was in a food coma so...

Smile, quick, I'm freezing! "Formaggio!"

We reached a summit at dusk. There was a bar in an igloo. When you see a bar in an igloo, you go in it. So we did. And we had some warm-your-bones Mulled Wine that hit the spot.

Back at the cabin, which Tiziana designed herself, we had an exquisite dinner of homemade pumpkin ravioli in a butter sage sauce, followed by chicken and mushrooms (picked by Domenico...but you knew that) and more local sweets and tea.

I asked if they are adopting...they are not, BUT they will treat you as one of their own. Really special people.

Then we settled into our beds for the kind of sleep you can only get on vacation in the middle of nowhere...

White Flag

2007-03-17T11:28:00.000+01:00

I give up! I am sorry I haven't posted in some time. I will try to get back on the wagon very soon. I was pretty sick with a freak health issue for about 3 weeks, and that, taken together with an unfortunate meeting between my camera and a packet of to-go soy sauce in my purse, has made it impossible to put anything interesting up here. And I want only the best for you folks!!

Coming soon, hopefully....the 'Month of Katy' (including karaoke, pub quiz, ridiculous movies, and a trip to Carlotta's fabulous pad in the Italian Alps!). Miss you Katy!

For now...it's 60 degrees and sunny here in the Eternal City - I'm off to the roof!

Superbowl Fiesta

2007-02-06T20:00:00.000+01:00

I hadn't pulled an all-nighter since college, until Charley hosted a Tex-Mex themed Superbowl party at his pad on Sunday night. The game started at 12:30am local time and by the time it ended it was almost light out and I was too wired to sleep for the 2 hrs. I had before needing to wake up again to go to "work."

Here are some highlights from the beginning:

...the middle...

...and the end:

And Now Back to Our Program

2007-01-28T13:32:00.000+01:00

My apologies for the interruption in regular programming. In order to thank you for your patience (some of you anyways), some photos of a few of the things I've been up to since Christmas:

Said a sad goodbye to the fam before my flight back to Rome on New Year's Eve:

(Ben's doing that on purpose so I have no better picture)

Checked out the life-sized Nativity Scene at St. Peter's:

Celebrated my birthday over pretty pink flowers and scrumptious brownies and cookies by Chef Cancemi...

...before skipping off to Barcelona to spend a well-timed long weekend with a friend. Most of the things we saw I'd already seen so I didn't take many photos. These ones are of a hospital that looks (on purpose) like a fairy-tale land:

Took some preliminary shots of my co-workers in preparation for the AE Commissary 2007 calendar:

Will - "Blue Steel"

Maria - "It's a Walk-Off"

Margaret & Will - "Wake Me Up Before You Go-Go"

yours truly - "Oh it's IN the computer..."

Karaoke with Carlotta and new friend Charley - need I say more...?

Carlotta: "this is silly, i'm embarrassed!"

2 seconds later: "It must have been love...but it's oooooooooooooover nooooooooow....."

Why my Christmas was better than yours

2006-12-26T16:04:00.000+01:00

1. Brother Ben's hand-wrapped gifts:

2. Josie trying to make out with Sam:

3. The view from home - SO Maine.

4. Tiny people that help you make Lemon Meringue Pie and pretend you're a kid again:

5. Christmas Breakfast - You all can have your bacon and eggs. I'll take Mom's cinnamon buns and Mimosas:

6. I won $1 when I sat down to Christmas dinner, you?

7. Real life little angels:

8:

matrimonio all'italiano

2006-12-18T20:20:00.000+01:00

My first Italian wedding was understated, classy and fun - just like Soana, the bride. The elegant dress and tux...

...the 3-minute civil ceremony held in the evocative Terme di Caracalla ancient baths...

...the cozy reception hall

- complete with fireplace - where we dined over 4 courses and approximately 14 different desserts (including the official wedding cake - a mountain of profiteroles)...

...it was all almost as breathtaking as Soana herself.

farewell to spinsterhood

2006-12-16T13:08:00.000+01:00

My ex-coworker and friend Soana is getting married on Sunday here in Rome and last night was the bridal shower/bachelorette party - "addio al nubilato" - which roughly translates to Farewell to Spinsterhood! Amen to that.

We went to a cabaret show in Ostiense - despite a mediocre meal and a comedian that I could understand perhaps only 60% of the time, it was a blast.

Eat your heart out

2006-12-09T19:44:00.001+01:00

For the first time this season, it really felt like Christmas to me last night. Tina invited me over to make gingerbread cookies and with our homemade Christmas CD playing in the background, her Charlie Brown Christmas tree twinkling in the corner and the smell of molasses, cinnamon and ginger wafting from the oven, the spirit creeped over me. The bottomless prosecco bottle(s) may have had something to do with that. It also may have had something to do with the unusual form some of our hand-cut cookies took on.

Flavio - what do you think of the cookies??

Grazie Roma

2006-12-03T11:27:00.000+01:00

...or so the cheer goes, when the AS Roma soccer team wins their game, as they did last night - and we were there!

The soccer stadium is a beautiful thing, especially at night. As Sam, 2 co-workers of mine and I approached the stadium, the one Roman with us was full of warnings and stories about riots and wild fans and rules about what to do and what not to do in case of riots or violence at the stadium. The opposing team, Atalanta, is famous for their rabid fans and their rivalry against Roma, so even though this was not an important game, anything could happen.

It appeared foggy as we approached - but upon opening the car window we realized it was smoke and not fog. From what, though??

As we walked into our section, security made me remove and give up the cap to my water bottle. This was to prevent me from throwing it.

And as we found our seats, we saw ALL the Atalanta fans quarantined like sheep in this one section, next to our section, surrounded by the riot squad. This was going to be fun!!!

Atalanta scored first, which ignited total chaos in their section - objects (such as flares - hence the smoke) were flying everywhere betweenour sections and my ears were buzzing from all the cheers, chants and excitement.

But in the end, superstar Totti saved the day - again - scoring on both of his penalty kicks:

...after which he performed his usual celebratory gesture of sucking his thumb, in honor of his new and expected babies...

It was a fabulous night - so thrilling!! I want to try to follow Italian soccer more closely now, especially since Roma is in 2nd place, and because next weekend there is the Derby - the 2 Rome teams (Roma and Lazio) play one another! I will be staying far far away from the stadium then.

I think this was the highlight of Sam's trip thus far. Mostly we've been walking around, chatting, drinking wine, comparing cultures and food and taking it easy. Today we are resting up after our night of celebration and then heading to the Christmas Market in Piazza Navona - I think I might need to buy myself a Roma jersey while there....

(all photos are Reuters copyright)

Sam and the City

2006-11-26T12:30:00.000+01:00

Samuel Adams hits Rome:

Trevi Fountain

St. Peter's Basilica

Ara Pacis - I found it ethereal and airy, not gas-station-like as many critics claim.

From the top of the Spanish Steps

Dinner at Tutti Frutti, Testaccio, with Julie, Paolo, Sophie, Paul and Sam
(we enjoyed cheese with honey and chestnuts, boar prosciutto with funghi, crema di risotto allo zafferano, baccala', artichoke parmigiano, fusilli with wild berries and wild mushrooms, la gricia - like amatriciana without the tomato - and dessert and wine)

Giving Thanks

2006-11-19T23:04:00.000+01:00

Well it's the week of Thanksgiving, my favorite holiday! 4 more days until a day off and a fabulous American dinner...

I kicked off this special week with a Saturday-night meal with Carlotta, followed by dancing like maniacs until 5:00am.

before the wine

after the wine

We somehow convinced a lot of Italians that we were sisters, despite her blond hair, blue eyes and olive complexion.

Speaking of family, I received this photo in my inbox today:

...unbelievably those are my real relatives, and I'm not talking 8th cousins 3 times removed. The man and the woman whose shoulder he's holding are my great-great-great grandparents (I can actually see the resemblence between her and my grandma), and the woman all the way to the left with her hands on the table is my great-great grandmother.

And in the spirit of Italian-family-togetherness, my brother arrives on Wednesday and I can't can't can't wait. Safe travels fratello mio!

2006-11-10T10:11:00.001+01:00

So, the Marine date was ok - it was good conversation but sans "spark" (for me anyways). The highlights were the delicious bucatini all'amatriciana and my date spilling red wine all over himself.

Today is Veteran's Day in the States so I have the day off from the Embassy. I have an interview in the afternoon for the Angels and Demons Tour Operator in Rome, who is looking for an Office Assistant. Yesterday I interviewed at a hotel, to be a receptionist, and they seemed to really like me. I'll find out soon! The only thing is, it's a full-time position, which means I'd have to leave the Commissary - a place I really enjoy.

It's a significant day for me and my family, so I just wanted to take this opportunity to say I miss everyone very much - please think about each other and look out for each other today!

Quick Re-cap

2006-11-08T19:51:00.000+01:00

Sorry I have been posting less. I am working full time meaning I have less fun things to report back!

A quick summing up of my week this far -

1. Sunday - stayed in all day, saddened by some upsetting family news from home but brightened at the thought of my brother Sam coming to visit me soon!

2. Monday - Went to work, came home, ate salad and pasta & fagioli.

3. Tuesday - Morning interview at hotel (reception) re-scheduled for Thursday. Went to work, was asked out by a Marine (accepted) for Wednesday night, stopped by Flav's pipe store looking to hear stories of his visit to the States but instead chatting for 1/2 hour with everyone BUT Flavio. Came home, ate salad and cauliflower for dinner. Visited Tina and Flav for those stories, photos and more of that delicious limoncello.

4. Wednesday - Went to work, participated in 2-hour lecture on biological and chemical terrorism and was then asked out my the teacher, a 45-ish year old man whose name I did not even know. It was an invitation to the Marine Ball which is evidently quite the affair but - che palle!!

Date news later......

I do!

2006-11-04T16:48:00.000+01:00

Fall has definitely arrived in Rome, and not in the gradual, slow way typical of Italian life, but rather suddenly. I'm glad for it - I love fall and the comfy clothes, snuggling and long walks that come with it. Since it is supposed to get back into the upper 60s next week, all this week and weekend I have been trying to take advantage, by walking the hour home from work (which is still full-time!), and scoping out what's new for the season at the local market.

Today there was a special market in my neighborhood, the First "BioFiera" called "Quality Organic Days" - all organic products and foods. It was amazing and the perfect fall afternoon activity. You can find everything from "raw milk" (I don't know and don't want to) to organic cosmetics, oils, cheeses, meats, breads, coffee, wines and sweets, mostly from Rome or elsewhere in Lazio.

There was even an impromptu outdoor bio-dome sort of restaurant with an all-organic menu:

Before cutting myself off cause I was spending too much, I bought organic Amaro (a strong after-dinner digestivo made of herbs), some veggies and 3 jars of Nutella-like chocolate spread, one with peperoncino (wisely suggested by the vendor for my cold), one with coffee and one made of dark chocolate, my newest obsession. The chocolates came with a marriage proposal from the crunchie vendor dude Giovanni who visited and loves Maine, and who (like me) needs a Visa - tempting, very tempting!!

Hiccup

2006-10-31T08:27:00.000+01:00

I apologize for the hiccup in my posting, it was one of those weeks! Exhausting but very satisfying too. The Embassy job is going well - I like everyone I work with and the traning is going fine. I am looking forward to purshasing many a not-found-elsewhere-in-Italy American treat in the near future - black beans, peanut butter, marshmallows, Pumpkin Pie mix - maybe some Lucky Charms. In the meantime I am getting speak some Italian at work, lots at home, and some when I go out in the evenings, and I can feel it improving. It's a good job and I hope they can give me the hours they may be possible, closer to full-time...either way, I still believe I have to move out of my apartment because it is costing me too much. But I love it here and really really really don't want to leave. See why:

Celebrating my new job with Mika - she brought out a delicious bottle of Barbera d'Asti and this cheese that is made by only 3 producers in all of Italy (and probably the world). It began as a poor man's cheese and is a mixture of different kinds. The outside is either a crust of nuts or of raisins, and it was really REALLY good, especially with some artisan chestnut honey she broke out for our mini-party too!

I also went out with the Carlotta and Wendy last week, to have a beer in the always lively Campo di Fiori and to catch up with Lisa T. from the Boston office! Then two nights later I met all the EIS girls for dinner at l'Angoletto, where we had a 3 hour meal beginning with prosecco, ending with limoncello, with lots and lots of food in between. Most satisfying where the giggles over Maccheroni, hard-to-explain crushes on over the hill actors (Bruce Willis?) and my constant "what does that word mean" throughout the conversation. I am proud that I am able to joke and argue in Italian though and feel like it should mean something!

Tina and Flavio are off to the States but not before leaving me with some of their homemade limoncello which came out so tastilicious, especially for their first try!! I think I will try to make some with a little deviation, like mixing lemon and lime or something like that.

Thanks for everyone's encouraging comments and emails!

back to good

2006-10-23T13:21:00.000+02:00

So I had begun this post writing about how I was feeling a bit better having gotten a call for another interview and because the rain is finally gone, when who should telephone but the Embassy - it seems they wanted to settle things up with their new cashier!!! (me). I start tomorrow - looks like the bottles of spumante we were given this weekend at the tasting came just in time...

Now I still need to look for other work since this is part time and pays very VERY little, but for now, all I can think of is celebrating!!

PS - in a related note, you will find I edited the "acknowledgements" in my October 18th post. I had understood it was Tina who put in a good word on my behalf at the Embassy, but in fact it was Flavio - you're the man F!

Il Dolce Far Niente?

2006-10-23T12:37:00.000+02:00

To be honest, the Dolce Far Niente, or the Sweetness of Doing Nothing, is wearing a little thin. Whoever coined that phrase must have been a trust-fund baby or something because who has the money to to wander here and there aimlessly as I have been doing? Besides, that is not really what life is about. As I expected, I am actually looking forward to going back to work and contributing, whether it is as a cashier or as something more "professional" (though I really really want the Embassy job). Working here is a part of Italian life that I have explored very little and so of course I am anxious to dive right in!

Of course, another part of Italian life I will never desert is food and drink. This weekend, I enjoyed a seemingly endless flow of prosecco - beginning at the American Academy of Rome's gallery opening (a show of posters), and then the following night at the First Annual ASTA for Italian prosecco and spumante, right here in Rome. Even Ferrari was represented, and it was excellent. They even give you this funky pouch to hold your wine glass throughout your tasting adventure:

At a wine tasting Saturday night, I picked a favorite Barbera, "Fava'" by the Tenuta Garetto.

Then I got into my third argument about immigration and "which country is better, Italy or the USA" since I've been here, so I called it a night!

Sunday I took myself to see The Devil Wears Prada (or more accurately, Il Diavolo Veste Prada!), which was cute- of course Meryl steals the show, but Stanley Tucci was also a welcome and enjoyable surprise! I then checked out Sant'Andrea del Quirinale (a church Bernini had complete control over and which therefore is quite stunning) before arriving at a food and wine tasting featuring products from the region of Terni, so close to Todi - a town very close to my heart! My favorites were the prosciuttos (less fatty than normal) and the olive oils. The wines were a bit disappointing.

I know you are asking yourself so I will oblige - all these tastings are completely FREE.

The spumante tasting provided small snacks, including this Dark Chocolate with peperoncino inside. It wasn't as spicy as I'd expected, but did provide a pleasant warmth in my throat as it went down!

An offer I can't refuse?

2006-10-18T17:36:00.000+02:00

What I thought was going to be a slow week has actually been pleasantly busy. I sent out a LOT of resumes and, fortunately, got two interesting and positive interviews this week (and one rejection via TEXT MESSAGE). One was at a center for movie subtitling, where I would be translating from Italian to English. I would get to watch movies and learn all sorts of new Italian and work part-time. Plus it is super close to my house! The woman I interviewed with did not seem concerned about my lack of work papers, and she complimented me on my Italian. The job is on a need-only-basis, so it would mean a paycheck only when there were movies to translated, but they seem quite busy and they have done some big films (Devil Wears Prada, DaVinci Code, and so on).

The second interview was at the American Embassy, to be a cashier at the Commissary, which is this mini-American supermarket/gift-shop open only to the staff at the Embassy (and those who work there!!). There are many things that are impossible to find elsewhere in Italy, and they are at huge discounts. This too would be part-time work, but with the possibility of more hours in the future, and also the embassy is known for hiring from within when positions open up. I was told I would be a really good fit there but that he was obligated to interview more people of course. But that was a positive sign in my opinion. So cross your fingers!!

I also was offered some work from the cosmetic company whose website I translated. They need a mother-tongue English speaker to first research beauty centers and distributors in England and create a database, and then in a month or 2, when the products have been repackaged and rebranded, begin contacting these centers to set up sales interviews with the creator. It is something I could do in my spare time. Either way, I was given a huge supply of the all-natural products to try out (in the interest of becoming a believer and being a better eventual sales-person); my stockpile is probably worth $200 or so, and they are actually really cool!

It is becoming more and more clear to me that I would like to own my own business, so I believe it to be wise to spread myself around and try lots of different things and work in more than one place, so all this part-time work could work out really well. KFC, put your thinking cap on...

If there is anywhere where it is true that what is important is not what you know but rather WHO you know, it's here; so thank you Tina for passing my name along to Rosanna at the movie place, and to Flavio for putting in a good word for me at the Embassy!

In between interviews, I am continuing my sightseeing and cooking and my cv-submitting - please say a prayer for me that I don't have to take the hotel house-keeping job I applied for yesterday. Ew.

Yup, those are my feet.

2006-10-17T00:12:00.001+02:00

I'd never been to the beaches of the Rome environs before, and since the forecast says we are dipping into the 60s for the rest of the week, I took advantage of the 73 degree, clear day to check them out. I hopped on the train and headed for Ostia. To my enjoyment, the beaches were almost deserted - however, that did not stop a continuous train of passerby to stop and chat with me. I think there is a perception here that if a young woman is doing anything without all her girlfriends around, she must be sad or lonely and need some company, and the males just want to help out - no matter how old they are or how small their bathing suit. Seriously, out of the 5 hours I was there, I probably spent 1 1/2 of them on my own. And keep in mind - I was reading a listening to my headphones the whole time.

In any case, it was a lovely, salty day and I believe I've been re-energized by the sea - always a place close to my heart. The work search roars back into action tomorrow.

Redemption

2006-10-15T20:51:00.000+02:00

In an effort to accomplish something on a lazy Sunday and get to a place where I can forgive the squash, I set out this afternoon to a nearby museum called Centrale Montemartini - it's off the beaten track and far from the crowds, which is exactly what I wanted...and then some.

The museum space was originally the first power station in Rome, inaugurated in 1912. So it has this neat yester-year atmosphere. Most of the machinery and equipment is still there and all the art pieces (mostly 1st century BC pieces, excavated from what is now downtown Rome - so cool) are set up against this very grandiose, powerful yet mechanical background. The pieces, especially the human forms, seem to come alive and overtake the machines with their movement, grace, vulnerability - it's spectacular:

There was a neat temporary exhibit as well, featuring costumes from famous Italian films - I saw dresses worn by Sofia Loren, Isabella Rosellini, Liza Minelli, and many more!

And finally - culinary redemption - I am sorry, Tina, Flavio and Carlotta, that I didn't make this last night because it is quite possibly the best pasta sauce I've ever made!!

And what better to compliment it than wine in a single serving juice box?

It's the squash's fault

2006-10-15T20:36:00.000+02:00

Maledetta zucca.

It's a good thing I make a mean roast chicken because my legendary (ok, maybe just well-liked) squash soup failed me last night - the night I tried to make dinner for my most gastronomically-educated friends! It looked great but sadly contributed nothing to the flavor of the soup. Maybe my EIS Boston friends can vouch for me??? Usually it's really good???

It's also a good thing that I had eaten really well the night before, at Dar Poeta in Trastevere - i FINALLY got the pizza I'd been craving since my arrival, and it, unlike certain fall veggies, lived up to its hype. The salame piccante was spciy, the mushrooms were al dente and the dough was perfectly thin-yet-sturdy.

The real story was in the dessert however - though the pictures went the way of the squash (bad):

(before) (after)

...the Calzone alla Nutella was heaven in a pizza pocket! Their specialty is this doughy, sweet calzone filled with nutella, sprinkled with powdered sugar and heated just so, making the Nutella, which I usually am no so gagga over like many people, melty and gushy and the perfect sweet finish to a Friday night out with friends.

Troppo

2006-10-13T12:58:00.001+02:00

troppo (too much/many) - the Italian word of the day on my gmail homepage, and very appropriate for the happenings of yesterday evening.

I finally met up with my former colleagues from EIS Rome for a drink at 'Friends' on Via della Scrofa and then we headed to il solito posto, Taverna del Parione, for dinner - which we didn't even make it to because of all the apps we ordered. It was so nice to see all their lovely faces again and hear their stories of ridiculous clients (one who told her group she was going to get a massage and actually got on a plane back to the US!)...but I am sorry that they always talk about work, it makes me feel sad for them and also like I really dodged a bullet. Then we put the tab onto an EIS group's bill that was also at the Parione so that E(vil)IS footed it all!

Then I kissed my friends goodbye until the next time and headed to Ostiense for the Volume concert - but not before I ripped up my left foot wearing shoes I hadn't worn since last year and dragging my bloody stump home to apply surely no less than 12 bandaids and to change shoes. I hailed a taxi and arrived at the club in time for the last 3 songs; though *some* people might say they didn't go for the music (check out their photos to see why), I think they are really quite talented - as if Coldplay and the Smashing Pumpkins and the Strokes got together, married an Italian and had a child. I'd buy their album.

It's another beautiful day in Rome - I'm heading out!

October 11, 2006

2006-10-11T22:49:00.000+02:00

It looks like translating until the wee hours of the night last night got the better of me - che sonno! Before I hit the sack, here are a few photos of what I saw today now being once again unemployed:

Church of Santa Maria della Vittoria - overly ornate church with Bernini's "Ecstasy of St. Theresa" (see the excerpt of how St. Theresa described her "religious" highs). The light is let in naturally by a window placed there just for this sculpture.

Church of Santa Maria degli Angeli - in the Diocletian Baths of Ancient Rome - This structure was converted from ancient bath ruins to the massive church you see today by Michelangelo. There is a neat astrological clock in here that spans almost the whole width of the church floor (you can see the little spot of light let in at the top of the second photo - where the bronze plaque is - to track the 'time' astrologically on the church floor).

There was also an exhibition of "Pope-Art" (get it, heeeheee)

Also in Santa Maria degli Angeli.

In other brief news - the interview went ok - oddly the permesso didn't even come up in conversation. Not sure if that's a good or bad sign. The job would be as a bounce-around assistant/substitute to all the operators of these big projects - incentives, big congresses, major sporting events (they are handling the America's Cup in Valencia). I'll hear Monday or Tuesday if I am to interview with the Director.

On a final, sweet note - my translation client called my translation perfect and stupendous and unexpectedly thorough!

And on a final, salty note - I finally got my arancina... and know I don't know how I am going to not have one every other night as long as I am in Rome! Even better than I remembered.

In the mouth of the wolf

2006-10-11T00:41:00.000+02:00

That's how you say 'good luck' in Italian if translated directly...and I am going to need it because I have another non-interview tomorrow (Wednesday). My lovely ex-coworker at the Rome office passed my cv along to her friend who also works in tourism here in Rome, at a company that handles conferences, congresses and every other sort of event that is on a massive scale - for example, they were in charge of all guest accommodations for the Olympics in Torino earlier this year! I am meeting said friend for a panino and a chat tomorrow before she proposes that her superiors meet with me to officially tell me they can't hire me because I don't have work papers. No - kidding - I'm pretty sure she knows I don't...ok like 60% sure...

I finished my translation today - I'd forgotten since my translation course in college that you never ever get to a point where you can say to yourself "It's perfect, I can do nothing more." But I am proud of the work I did and can now go back to being lazy.

Lastly, so my friend Katie will stop whining, here is a link to her blog - so to all one of you who reads my blog, please check hers out too...she might possibly have the cutest baby in the world (videos of Bella are included on the site - though Katie you have yet to post one of her saying Emma...) and is one sassy Mainer.

Reconnecting with old friends - PRICELESS

2006-10-09T11:07:00.000+02:00

This weekend Tina and I headed up to Florence for the 75th anniversary celebration of the Smith JYA Florence program. We hopped on the train, chatted up the tourists sitting next to us (having the same conversation we always do with Americans traveling in Italy), and in an hour and a half were back in Firenze - I hadn't been back for 4 years, except for a few hours once 3 years ago.

We immediately split up to have lunch with our former host families. I hadn't spoken to my host mother Monica for about 3 years and it was an amazing reconnection. She welcomed me back into her life and her home with such generosity and sincerity, my heart was positively overflowing from the kindness and warmth she displayed. We chatted just like old times and found ourselves not wanting to go to the reunion, prefering to talk the night away. Her son, joy of my year in Florence (some may remember how I stole a picture of Nicco nude at the beach at 2 years old, from my host mom's album to show my friends at school), is now 6 years old and still a bambino d'oro (golden baby!). He's happy, healthy, cute and totally rambunctious.

The reunion was a pleasure if only to give hugs to the big players in my magical JYA year in Florence. Those connections are indeed priceless, but I can't resist the comparison:

***$50.00 US dollars gets you 2 hours of chit-chat and finger food in a too-large room with lovely but busy guests:

***And then look what 4 Euros get you from Maria at the Testaccio open market!! (that's 2 kg. of grapes, 6 fresh carrots, an apple, 4 onions, a lemon, 2 zucchini, a perfect tomato, celery, basil and a yellow fruit I forget the name of...)

Of course, cow's urinary tract will cost you a bit more if that's your thing - but I'll stick with the fresh fruit and vegetables.

The great part, on which you cannot put a price, is that Monica and Nicco, in addition to her boyfriend Carlo and her nephew Filippo (also 25) are going to come visit me in Rome next month.

In the meantime, I have been hired to translate the Italian portion of a Florentine natural cosmetic company's website into English, through my roommate's friend who works there - and there may be more work for me afterwards! Either way, she said she'd prepare a letter on my behalf to prove I had worked for an Italian company - this could help in my continued search for regular work.

October 05, 2006

2006-10-06T01:22:00.000+02:00

This morning I decided to stay close to home and get to know Trastevere, across the river from me. This neighorhood is charming, cute, picturesque and...a lot like Testaccio, but on a larger scale. I checked out the main church, Santa Maria in Trastevere, where, oddly, there was a German mass going on. I also had some delicious pizza and was told I was splendid.

I then went to the local church of St. Francis (a Ripa) - since it always calms me a reminds me of Granny. There is a powerful Bernini sculpture here, that really took the "passion" of Christ to a new level, if you ask me...
I also made sure do walk down SALAMI ST............
...And made it home in time for a quick bite of leftover Amatriciana before Trivia Night at Druid's Rock Scottish/Italian pub in Piazza Esquilino with some old friends from EIS. Team "3b's" - that's "The Brains (Carlotta), the Brian (Brian) and the Bostonian (yours truly)" - came in 12th out of 14 - hooray for not coming in last and for having so many laughs!!!

October 04, 2006

2006-10-05T00:08:00.000+02:00

The season is changing here in Rome, finally. Autumn is creeping in with temperatures in the LOW 70s instead of the mid-to-high 70s. It is a time of sinus headaches, light jackets and of change. So I made myself send out a couple of more resumes in the morning, and then headed out for some sightseeing. I wish everyone could spend their first week in a new place just buying and preparing food, and then start sightseeing the second week - it's really worked out splendidly for me - I actually have the energy to appreciate and commit to memory what I am seeing and feeling.

I went to a photo show by Henri Cartier-Bresson at the Palazzo Braschi, one of the museums in the Museo di Roma association. I really really loved it. If they had a catalogue of this particular show, I would have bought it - the first part was of his time in Rome, and the other was comprised of his ritratti - how do you say that in English, profiles? Instead, I bought a small book of some of his works, and here are a couple of my favorites - what I liked about his photography was that even though often the scenery took up most of the photo, one's attention would be brought to the people in the scene. He seemed to catch moments that defined entire beings, without it being dramatic or planned. He often spoke of glances, or "sguardi", which I am now convinced is the best type of photography.

I proceeded then to walk the long way....passing through "the most beautiful coutyard in Rome" (part of the university La Sapienza):

... to San Crispino for their famous honey-flavored house flavor, and it was worth the walk and the getting lost. It was like cold, icy, creamy honey. And the gelato guy asked me if my next boyfriend might be a gelatoio. You never know...

On the way home, I passed by the Piazza del Quirinale to take in the incredible sunset before me from the position on the Quirinale hill, the original hill of Rome. It was just like a Maxfield Parish painting (thank you, Amy Doucha, for, among other things, turning me on to Maxfield Parish!). My photos didn't come out well..the camera is still acting up...but you can get the idea:

Feeling inspired by the fresco of my life, I made the call to my host-mom from my year in Florence, who I'd tragically lost touch with over the last 4 years. I am headed to a reunion in Florence this weekend, for past and current students, and I wanted to make sure 1) I didn't not surprise her and 2) I got to spend some time with her and her son Niccolo (now 6!!) outside of the chaos of the party. Her voice, laughter and the sincerity of her excitement in hearing from me brought back so many good memories of that year, and I am now so anxious to see her and my little Nicco on Saturday.

Finally, it was dinner time, and the amatriciana came out GREAT.

(notice the label-less beer bottle in the background)

Finally, I made my decision about the NGO offer. I decided to turn it down. My gut told me that I would constantly be changing my schedule, and thereby my committment, to them, and that wouldn't be fair. They promised they would do nothing to assist in my work paper endeavors, and I do not feel that is a proper exchange for my efforts, no matter how flexible their offer. The woman I interviewed with (an American) wrote back saying she really appreciated my honesty and my respectful response, and that she remained open to my coming in at any time should my situation change (become more regular) - or, just to contact her as a friend. I think it worked out well in the end - no bridges were burned, I did not "sell myself short," (a hard-earned lesson from EIS) and I still have my freedom to travel and explore.

October 03, 2006

2006-10-04T00:29:00.000+02:00

Well, my camera stopped working (again) but Mika and I got too stuffed with salami, cheese, bread and :::hiccup::: wine at a local enoteca to actually make dinner anyways. My spaghetti and clams were excellent however, and I had enough leftovers to make two more meals, reheated the old-fashioned way, over an actual flame. Here is all the remained after lunch:

Domani - amatriciana!

In an effort to scrape up just a little non-food-related news, I was offered a volunteer position today at the non-profit where I interviewed last week. Every time i think of this interview I get more upset - how dare this guy imply that I am trying to do something slippery? He has every opportunity to hire me legally. In any case, I am torn because they said it could be on my terms - the number of hours and the expectation that when and if I do find work, my committment to them would obviously change - not to mention, it'd be a great opportunity to learn about, and contribute to, a good organization and meet new international people. On the other hand, why should they get me for free? I can't help but ask myself if they really did like me that much or if they thought that by hiring me they could afford a new espresso machine?

Domani - decision!

When in doubt...

2006-09-30T23:45:00.000+02:00

My mind is a blur these days - a whirlwind of ideas and questions... do I apply to grad school to get a student visa? Do I try to work here illegaly or take what I can get and move back home in December? Should I continue to buy beer just for the cute label? I find it's usually a good idea to eat at times like these.

So tonight I made a dish of pasta with all the veggies in my tiny fridge... finocchio (not that kind, Ben), carrots, beets, garlic, corn, onions and red pepper. First, I roasted the red pepper directly on the stovetop (a la Mamma Adams) and roasted the others in oil / salt / pepper / rosemary in the oven:
... then enjoyed them with Bavette pasta, which is sort of between spaghetti and linguine in the width of the noodle. The risultato: delizioso! I am now a HUGE fan of roasted carrots on pasta, and cannot for the life of me understand why it's never found this way in restaurants, etc.

Tomorrow's lunch/dinner - spaghetti with clam sauce with the real clams, not from a can! Instead, from a man at the market who threw in a little parsley for me knowing what I was going to make!

Then, feeling satisfied, I headed out to the piazza to watch the outdoor premier screening of the documentary "Core de Roma" ("Heart of Rome" in the local dialect), all about Testaccio through the eyes of the old signori at the local soccer club (around the corner from my home, incidentally). Here are some pics, though it was dark. Apparently the captain of the AS Roma team is one of the guys up there:

Or Am I...?

2006-09-28T18:11:00.001+02:00

My interview at Glocal Forum was Wednesday and looking back on it, I'm telling myself it was good practice. It is not going to go anywhere, because I don't have work papers. The character/philosophy/personal side of the interview was excellent - I impressed those interviewers enough for them to arrange for my second interview, right then and there, with some big-shot at the org. He told me that I had 10 mins to convince him he should hire me because he was on his way out the door. At the end of my impromptu speech, he said, well we have a legal problem because you do not have a permesso di soggiorno. Vabbe', you knew this from the get-go, what are we doing here anyways?!

It's a predicament that I find very Italian in that it is full of dichotomies. It's like the pollo and the uovo - to get work papers you must have a job, but to get a job you need the papers.

So, I was feeling a bit beaten and decided to walk home, about an hour's passeggiata. It was a beautiful day, around 79 degrees , sunny... so I figured the fresh air would do me good. While I was walking I had to pass through a group of chatting middle-aged hairy men and one asked me - ma lei e' un'attrice (are you an actress)? I admit I sort of appreciate comments like this - especially because it got me thinking. While I told him I was not, in a way I am. In the job hunt process, I am forced to convince these people that I am the greatest thing since sliced foccaccia, but I don't feel that way. I am completely and absolutely acting during these interviews - I mean, that's not news to anyone, nor is it unique to me, but this whole Italy adventure is bringing into sharp focus what is true and real and what isn't.

So, feeling better after my walk, I arrived home and put together my dinner - had I know what was to come later, I would have eaten more... but all I wanted at the time were mozzarella stuffed zucchini flowers, so that's what I made - delicious!

Then I went to meet Tina, Flavio and their friend Marta to head over to the bar to watch the soccer game. Rome lost in the end but the evening turned into a mini-reunion among Tina and Flav's buddies so a party was born on the front patio at the bar. I don't remember much else so... good this Tina sent me some photos and put some up on her blog - now we can all see together what the heck was so funny until 3 o'clock in the morning.

So today I slept in and tabled my whole plan to not suffer from the time difference, it's not working anyways. So I slept and slept and then headed out for a walk around the 'hood. Nothing remarkable to report, but I did see a beautiful plaque, finally dedicated to the women of World War II:

"To the women of Rome who, together with the soldiers and countrymen, in days of extreme danger and intrepid resistence, defended their city and their country, healed wounds, comforted the dying, all while themselves facing death, many losing their lives. The City of Rome and the National Partisan Association of Italy, place this plaque to forever remind us of, and honor, the courage, the devotion, the ideal, of liberty and of peace."

Bello, no?

Just cause I'm in wine country...

2006-09-26T19:56:00.000+02:00

...doesn't mean I can't enjoy a beer once in a while.

Today I learned an important difference between my homeland and my motherland: Americans put athletes on cereal boxes; Italians put them on beer.

Peroni beer has released collector's edition beer bottles with various scenes of the Azzurri World Cup victory on the label. Mika sells a product that removes and preserves wine/beer labels (look-up 'winememory') and has very generously offered to give me some for these treasures. For now, enjoy the photo! (Note: before you ask, I haven't yet learned if there's a label with Materrazzi running around the pitch in his tighty-whiteys).

And what a way to enjoy a beer - opening it with a talking Boston Red Sox bottle opener. When you use it, it plays the announcer's commentary the moment the Sox won the World Series in 2004, complete with fanfare in the background. Thank you Jackie for that awesome gift! Mika was fascinated and thinks I should sell them in Italy with the World Cup commentary - so maybe if the do-gooder NGO thing doesn't work out....

So hear's to Italian beer - and to drinking responsibly. I have another job interview tomorrow after all:

An International NGO based in Rome is seeking intern with passion for youth and international affairs, strong administrative and written skills, and willingness to learn. The position involves support tasks for a global youth network including contact with members, development of program website, and research on partners and funders. Applicants must be fluent in English, conversational in Italian, and highly competent PC users. Only qualified candidates will be contacted.

Let's just hope it's a paid internship.

The Adams Luck

2006-09-25T18:33:00.000+02:00

There's a strange happening in my family, that only those who know us really well will notice. Somehow, things always work out for us. It may be subtle, but we always seem to have the light shining upon us, and the worst never happens. If we are running late (which is always), whoever or whatever we were rushing to happens to be running late too. If there is something we need, someone is trying desperately to give said-thing away. This luck likely makes some of you upset at times, but believe me, I am grateful for every blessing, large and small. For me, it has created an eternal optimism and easy-going nature that are perhaps somewhat naive, but that serve me well.

Today, I had a job interview here in Rome that was almost a sure thing - the guy had responded to my resume right away and had waited 6 weeks to meet me even though he had to fill the position urgently ("urgently" to be taken with a grain of salt...this IS Italy after all). In any case, I trudged through what I was sure was worst rainstorm in all Roman history, in my fancy new suit...hair and make-up done, route planned out, resume in hand. After a few deep breaths at the bottom of the stairs, I arrived at the office only to be told that they'd filled the position on Saturday and "hadn't Marco contacted you this morning to tell you not to come in?" No, no he didn't, but that's ok, thanks anyway! I am out within 60 seconds of having entered.

As a pick-me-up (the translation of "tiramisu"), I continued soaking my fancy new suit in pursuit of 'arancini', those delicious Sicilian fried rice and cheese balls.

There was a place that made them especially well that I remember from my last time in Rome, about 15 mins from my non-interview. Not having had lunch because of nerves, I was especially excited...and desperate.

So I get there only to learn that Monday is the one day a week the "World of Arancini" is closed.

HOWEVER, and here is where the Adams luck comes in, it happens to be located exactly where I need to get the bus home and the bus comes right away. Once home, my roommate tells me that this happens all the time...you don't want to work for a place like that... something better will come along and you'll be so glad you didn't take this job. I go to change into dry clothes and to check my email and find an message from Signor Marco - interviewer extraordinaire. He apologizes and tells me he really found my resume really very interesting and he is going to keep it on file, provided I approve. He would very much like to keep in touch and apologizes profusely for not having contacted me earlier to tell me not to come - he even apologizes for the rain.

So, in the end, even though my best chance, thus far, at finding work here in Rome has fallen through, I am somehow ok. Mika and I are going out for pizza, which is a cure for just about any ailment, if you ask me (aside: I made sure they were open today). I am finding plenty of places to apply to and in the meantime enjoying my free wireless internet, the impending thunderstorm (one of my favorite things) and the feeling that it'll be ok. I can do this, luck or not.

Rome is even pretty in the rain after all... (view from the kitchen - that's the courtyard down there, with real lemon and lime trees)

An American in Rome

2006-09-24T23:43:00.000+02:00

Ironically, this movie was playing last night out in the main piazza of Testaccio, on a big screen outside. Today, the second full day of my Italian adventure, was as Italian as it gets - I took Il Dolce Far Niente to heart with a morning stroll through the outdoor market to buy curtains and such (see the photo), an afternoon lounging welcome lunch prepared by my new roommate Mika with friends Tina and Flavio, followed by a birra at the local bar while watching Roma kick Parma's culo at soccer.

The rest of the day (which, by the way, felt very very long - perhaps a side-effect of being unemployed? I like it.) was spent unpacking, decorating and chatting with Mika over tofu, rice and wine from a box. Oh, I also chatted a bit with my new little cuddly friend Ramo.

The view from above window - that's the Tiber you see through the leaves! And yes we ARE high up! I'm on the 5th floor (in America it'd actually be the 6th floor), without an elevator. I consider it a good balance to all the pasta, bread, dolci....