Hiccup

I apologize for the hiccup in my posting, it was one of those weeks! Exhausting but very satisfying too. The Embassy job is going well - I like everyone I work with and the traning is going fine. I am looking forward to purshasing many a not-found-elsewhere-in-Italy American treat in the near future - black beans, peanut butter, marshmallows, Pumpkin Pie mix - maybe some Lucky Charms. In the meantime I am getting speak some Italian at work, lots at home, and some when I go out in the evenings, and I can feel it improving. It's a good job and I hope they can give me the hours they may be possible, closer to full-time...either way, I still believe I have to move out of my apartment because it is costing me too much. But I love it here and really really really don't want to leave. See why:

Celebrating my new job with Mika - she brought out a delicious bottle of Barbera d'Asti and this cheese that is made by only 3 producers in all of Italy (and probably the world). It began as a poor man's cheese and is a mixture of different kinds. The outside is either a crust of nuts or of raisins, and it was really REALLY good, especially with some artisan chestnut honey she broke out for our mini-party too!

I also went out with the Carlotta and Wendy last week, to have a beer in the always lively Campo di Fiori and to catch up with Lisa T. from the Boston office! Then two nights later I met all the EIS girls for dinner at l'Angoletto, where we had a 3 hour meal beginning with prosecco, ending with limoncello, with lots and lots of food in between. Most satisfying where the giggles over Maccheroni, hard-to-explain crushes on over the hill actors (Bruce Willis?) and my constant "what does that word mean" throughout the conversation. I am proud that I am able to joke and argue in Italian though and feel like it should mean something!

Tina and Flavio are off to the States but not before leaving me with some of their homemade limoncello which came out so tastilicious, especially for their first try!! I think I will try to make some with a little deviation, like mixing lemon and lime or something like that.

Thanks for everyone's encouraging comments and emails!

back to good

So I had begun this post writing about how I was feeling a bit better having gotten a call for another interview and because the rain is finally gone, when who should telephone but the Embassy - it seems they wanted to settle things up with their new cashier!!! (me). I start tomorrow - looks like the bottles of spumante we were given this weekend at the tasting came just in time...

Now I still need to look for other work since this is part time and pays very VERY little, but for now, all I can think of is celebrating!!

PS - in a related note, you will find I edited the "acknowledgements" in my October 18th post. I had understood it was Tina who put in a good word on my behalf at the Embassy, but in fact it was Flavio - you're the man F!

Il Dolce Far Niente?

To be honest, the Dolce Far Niente, or the Sweetness of Doing Nothing, is wearing a little thin. Whoever coined that phrase must have been a trust-fund baby or something because who has the money to to wander here and there aimlessly as I have been doing? Besides, that is not really what life is about. As I expected, I am actually looking forward to going back to work and contributing, whether it is as a cashier or as something more "professional" (though I really really want the Embassy job). Working here is a part of Italian life that I have explored very little and so of course I am anxious to dive right in!

Of course, another part of Italian life I will never desert is food and drink. This weekend, I enjoyed a seemingly endless flow of prosecco - beginning at the American Academy of Rome's gallery opening (a show of posters), and then the following night at the First Annual ASTA for Italian prosecco and spumante, right here in Rome. Even Ferrari was represented, and it was excellent. They even give you this funky pouch to hold your wine glass throughout your tasting adventure:

At a wine tasting Saturday night, I picked a favorite Barbera, "Fava'" by the Tenuta Garetto.

Then I got into my third argument about immigration and "which country is better, Italy or the USA" since I've been here, so I called it a night!

Sunday I took myself to see The Devil Wears Prada (or more accurately, Il Diavolo Veste Prada!), which was cute- of course Meryl steals the show, but Stanley Tucci was also a welcome and enjoyable surprise! I then checked out Sant'Andrea del Quirinale (a church Bernini had complete control over and which therefore is quite stunning) before arriving at a food and wine tasting featuring products from the region of Terni, so close to Todi - a town very close to my heart! My favorites were the prosciuttos (less fatty than normal) and the olive oils. The wines were a bit disappointing.

I know you are asking yourself so I will oblige - all these tastings are completely FREE.

The spumante tasting provided small snacks, including this Dark Chocolate with peperoncino inside. It wasn't as spicy as I'd expected, but did provide a pleasant warmth in my throat as it went down!

An offer I can't refuse?

What I thought was going to be a slow week has actually been pleasantly busy. I sent out a LOT of resumes and, fortunately, got two interesting and positive interviews this week (and one rejection via TEXT MESSAGE). One was at a center for movie subtitling, where I would be translating from Italian to English. I would get to watch movies and learn all sorts of new Italian and work part-time. Plus it is super close to my house! The woman I interviewed with did not seem concerned about my lack of work papers, and she complimented me on my Italian. The job is on a need-only-basis, so it would mean a paycheck only when there were movies to translated, but they seem quite busy and they have done some big films (Devil Wears Prada, DaVinci Code, and so on).

The second interview was at the American Embassy, to be a cashier at the Commissary, which is this mini-American supermarket/gift-shop open only to the staff at the Embassy (and those who work there!!). There are many things that are impossible to find elsewhere in Italy, and they are at huge discounts. This too would be part-time work, but with the possibility of more hours in the future, and also the embassy is known for hiring from within when positions open up. I was told I would be a really good fit there but that he was obligated to interview more people of course. But that was a positive sign in my opinion. So cross your fingers!!

I also was offered some work from the cosmetic company whose website I translated. They need a mother-tongue English speaker to first research beauty centers and distributors in England and create a database, and then in a month or 2, when the products have been repackaged and rebranded, begin contacting these centers to set up sales interviews with the creator. It is something I could do in my spare time. Either way, I was given a huge supply of the all-natural products to try out (in the interest of becoming a believer and being a better eventual sales-person); my stockpile is probably worth $200 or so, and they are actually really cool!

It is becoming more and more clear to me that I would like to own my own business, so I believe it to be wise to spread myself around and try lots of different things and work in more than one place, so all this part-time work could work out really well. KFC, put your thinking cap on...

If there is anywhere where it is true that what is important is not what you know but rather WHO you know, it's here; so thank you Tina for passing my name along to Rosanna at the movie place, and to Flavio for putting in a good word for me at the Embassy!

In between interviews, I am continuing my sightseeing and cooking and my cv-submitting - please say a prayer for me that I don't have to take the hotel house-keeping job I applied for yesterday. Ew.

Yup, those are my feet.

I'd never been to the beaches of the Rome environs before, and since the forecast says we are dipping into the 60s for the rest of the week, I took advantage of the 73 degree, clear day to check them out. I hopped on the train and headed for Ostia. To my enjoyment, the beaches were almost deserted - however, that did not stop a continuous train of passerby to stop and chat with me. I think there is a perception here that if a young woman is doing anything without all her girlfriends around, she must be sad or lonely and need some company, and the males just want to help out - no matter how old they are or how small their bathing suit. Seriously, out of the 5 hours I was there, I probably spent 1 1/2 of them on my own. And keep in mind - I was reading a listening to my headphones the whole time.

In any case, it was a lovely, salty day and I believe I've been re-energized by the sea - always a place close to my heart. The work search roars back into action tomorrow.

Redemption

In an effort to accomplish something on a lazy Sunday and get to a place where I can forgive the squash, I set out this afternoon to a nearby museum called Centrale Montemartini - it's off the beaten track and far from the crowds, which is exactly what I wanted...and then some.

The museum space was originally the first power station in Rome, inaugurated in 1912. So it has this neat yester-year atmosphere. Most of the machinery and equipment is still there and all the art pieces (mostly 1st century BC pieces, excavated from what is now downtown Rome - so cool) are set up against this very grandiose, powerful yet mechanical background. The pieces, especially the human forms, seem to come alive and overtake the machines with their movement, grace, vulnerability - it's spectacular:






There was a neat temporary exhibit as well, featuring costumes from famous Italian films - I saw dresses worn by Sofia Loren, Isabella Rosellini, Liza Minelli, and many more!



And finally - culinary redemption - I am sorry, Tina, Flavio and Carlotta, that I didn't make this last night because it is quite possibly the best pasta sauce I've ever made!!



And what better to compliment it than wine in a single serving juice box?

It's the squash's fault

Maledetta zucca.

It's a good thing I make a mean roast chicken because my legendary (ok, maybe just well-liked) squash soup failed me last night - the night I tried to make dinner for my most gastronomically-educated friends! It looked great but sadly contributed nothing to the flavor of the soup. Maybe my EIS Boston friends can vouch for me??? Usually it's really good???

It's also a good thing that I had eaten really well the night before, at Dar Poeta in Trastevere - i FINALLY got the pizza I'd been craving since my arrival, and it, unlike certain fall veggies, lived up to its hype. The salame piccante was spciy, the mushrooms were al dente and the dough was perfectly thin-yet-sturdy.

The real story was in the dessert however - though the pictures went the way of the squash (bad):

(before) (after)


...the Calzone alla Nutella was heaven in a pizza pocket! Their specialty is this doughy, sweet calzone filled with nutella, sprinkled with powdered sugar and heated just so, making the Nutella, which I usually am no so gagga over like many people, melty and gushy and the perfect sweet finish to a Friday night out with friends.

Troppo

troppo (too much/many) - the Italian word of the day on my gmail homepage, and very appropriate for the happenings of yesterday evening.

I finally met up with my former colleagues from EIS Rome for a drink at 'Friends' on Via della Scrofa and then we headed to il solito posto, Taverna del Parione, for dinner - which we didn't even make it to because of all the apps we ordered. It was so nice to see all their lovely faces again and hear their stories of ridiculous clients (one who told her group she was going to get a massage and actually got on a plane back to the US!)...but I am sorry that they always talk about work, it makes me feel sad for them and also like I really dodged a bullet. Then we put the tab onto an EIS group's bill that was also at the Parione so that E(vil)IS footed it all!

Then I kissed my friends goodbye until the next time and headed to Ostiense for the Volume concert - but not before I ripped up my left foot wearing shoes I hadn't worn since last year and dragging my bloody stump home to apply surely no less than 12 bandaids and to change shoes. I hailed a taxi and arrived at the club in time for the last 3 songs; though *some* people might say they didn't go for the music (check out their photos to see why), I think they are really quite talented - as if Coldplay and the Smashing Pumpkins and the Strokes got together, married an Italian and had a child. I'd buy their album.

It's another beautiful day in Rome - I'm heading out!

October 11, 2006

It looks like translating until the wee hours of the night last night got the better of me - che sonno! Before I hit the sack, here are a few photos of what I saw today now being once again unemployed:


Church of Santa Maria della Vittoria - overly ornate church with Bernini's "Ecstasy of St. Theresa" (see the excerpt of how St. Theresa described her "religious" highs). The light is let in naturally by a window placed there just for this sculpture.



Church of Santa Maria degli Angeli - in the Diocletian Baths of Ancient Rome - This structure was converted from ancient bath ruins to the massive church you see today by Michelangelo. There is a neat astrological clock in here that spans almost the whole width of the church floor (you can see the little spot of light let in at the top of the second photo - where the bronze plaque is - to track the 'time' astrologically on the church floor).

There was also an exhibition of "Pope-Art" (get it, heeeheee)




Also in Santa Maria degli Angeli.


In other brief news - the interview went ok - oddly the permesso didn't even come up in conversation. Not sure if that's a good or bad sign. The job would be as a bounce-around assistant/substitute to all the operators of these big projects - incentives, big congresses, major sporting events (they are handling the America's Cup in Valencia). I'll hear Monday or Tuesday if I am to interview with the Director.

On a final, sweet note - my translation client called my translation perfect and stupendous and unexpectedly thorough!

And on a final, salty note - I finally got my arancina... and know I don't know how I am going to not have one every other night as long as I am in Rome! Even better than I remembered.

In the mouth of the wolf

That's how you say 'good luck' in Italian if translated directly...and I am going to need it because I have another non-interview tomorrow (Wednesday). My lovely ex-coworker at the Rome office passed my cv along to her friend who also works in tourism here in Rome, at a company that handles conferences, congresses and every other sort of event that is on a massive scale - for example, they were in charge of all guest accommodations for the Olympics in Torino earlier this year! I am meeting said friend for a panino and a chat tomorrow before she proposes that her superiors meet with me to officially tell me they can't hire me because I don't have work papers. No - kidding - I'm pretty sure she knows I don't...ok like 60% sure...

I finished my translation today - I'd forgotten since my translation course in college that you never ever get to a point where you can say to yourself "It's perfect, I can do nothing more." But I am proud of the work I did and can now go back to being lazy.

Lastly, so my friend Katie will stop whining, here is a link to her blog - so to all one of you who reads my blog, please check hers out too...she might possibly have the cutest baby in the world (videos of Bella are included on the site - though Katie you have yet to post one of her saying Emma...) and is one sassy Mainer.

Reconnecting with old friends - PRICELESS

This weekend Tina and I headed up to Florence for the 75th anniversary celebration of the Smith JYA Florence program. We hopped on the train, chatted up the tourists sitting next to us (having the same conversation we always do with Americans traveling in Italy), and in an hour and a half were back in Firenze - I hadn't been back for 4 years, except for a few hours once 3 years ago.

We immediately split up to have lunch with our former host families. I hadn't spoken to my host mother Monica for about 3 years and it was an amazing reconnection. She welcomed me back into her life and her home with such generosity and sincerity, my heart was positively overflowing from the kindness and warmth she displayed. We chatted just like old times and found ourselves not wanting to go to the reunion, prefering to talk the night away. Her son, joy of my year in Florence (some may remember how I stole a picture of Nicco nude at the beach at 2 years old, from my host mom's album to show my friends at school), is now 6 years old and still a bambino d'oro (golden baby!). He's happy, healthy, cute and totally rambunctious.




The reunion was a pleasure if only to give hugs to the big players in my magical JYA year in Florence. Those connections are indeed priceless, but I can't resist the comparison:

***$50.00 US dollars gets you 2 hours of chit-chat and finger food in a too-large room with lovely but busy guests:



***And then look what 4 Euros get you from Maria at the Testaccio open market!! (that's 2 kg. of grapes, 6 fresh carrots, an apple, 4 onions, a lemon, 2 zucchini, a perfect tomato, celery, basil and a yellow fruit I forget the name of...)
















Of course, cow's urinary tract will cost you a bit more if that's your thing - but I'll stick with the fresh fruit and vegetables.

The great part, on which you cannot put a price, is that Monica and Nicco, in addition to her boyfriend Carlo and her nephew Filippo (also 25) are going to come visit me in Rome next month.

In the meantime, I have been hired to translate the Italian portion of a Florentine natural cosmetic company's website into English, through my roommate's friend who works there - and there may be more work for me afterwards! Either way, she said she'd prepare a letter on my behalf to prove I had worked for an Italian company - this could help in my continued search for regular work.

October 05, 2006

This morning I decided to stay close to home and get to know Trastevere, across the river from me. This neighorhood is charming, cute, picturesque and...a lot like Testaccio, but on a larger scale. I checked out the main church, Santa Maria in Trastevere, where, oddly, there was a German mass going on. I also had some delicious pizza and was told I was splendid.

I then went to the local church of St. Francis (a Ripa) - since it always calms me a reminds me of Granny. There is a powerful Bernini sculpture here, that really took the "passion" of Christ to a new level, if you ask me...
I also made sure do walk down SALAMI ST............
...And made it home in time for a quick bite of leftover Amatriciana before Trivia Night at Druid's Rock Scottish/Italian pub in Piazza Esquilino with some old friends from EIS. Team "3b's" - that's "The Brains (Carlotta), the Brian (Brian) and the Bostonian (yours truly)" - came in 12th out of 14 - hooray for not coming in last and for having so many laughs!!!

October 04, 2006

The season is changing here in Rome, finally. Autumn is creeping in with temperatures in the LOW 70s instead of the mid-to-high 70s. It is a time of sinus headaches, light jackets and of change. So I made myself send out a couple of more resumes in the morning, and then headed out for some sightseeing. I wish everyone could spend their first week in a new place just buying and preparing food, and then start sightseeing the second week - it's really worked out splendidly for me - I actually have the energy to appreciate and commit to memory what I am seeing and feeling.

I went to a photo show by Henri Cartier-Bresson at the Palazzo Braschi, one of the museums in the Museo di Roma association. I really really loved it. If they had a catalogue of this particular show, I would have bought it - the first part was of his time in Rome, and the other was comprised of his ritratti - how do you say that in English, profiles? Instead, I bought a small book of some of his works, and here are a couple of my favorites - what I liked about his photography was that even though often the scenery took up most of the photo, one's attention would be brought to the people in the scene. He seemed to catch moments that defined entire beings, without it being dramatic or planned. He often spoke of glances, or "sguardi", which I am now convinced is the best type of photography.

I proceeded then to walk the long way....passing through "the most beautiful coutyard in Rome" (part of the university La Sapienza):


... to San Crispino for their famous honey-flavored house flavor, and it was worth the walk and the getting lost. It was like cold, icy, creamy honey. And the gelato guy asked me if my next boyfriend might be a gelatoio. You never know...

On the way home, I passed by the Piazza del Quirinale to take in the incredible sunset before me from the position on the Quirinale hill, the original hill of Rome. It was just like a Maxfield Parish painting (thank you, Amy Doucha, for, among other things, turning me on to Maxfield Parish!). My photos didn't come out well..the camera is still acting up...but you can get the idea:

Feeling inspired by the fresco of my life, I made the call to my host-mom from my year in Florence, who I'd tragically lost touch with over the last 4 years. I am headed to a reunion in Florence this weekend, for past and current students, and I wanted to make sure 1) I didn't not surprise her and 2) I got to spend some time with her and her son Niccolo (now 6!!) outside of the chaos of the party. Her voice, laughter and the sincerity of her excitement in hearing from me brought back so many good memories of that year, and I am now so anxious to see her and my little Nicco on Saturday.

Finally, it was dinner time, and the amatriciana came out GREAT.

(notice the label-less beer bottle in the background)

Finally, I made my decision about the NGO offer. I decided to turn it down. My gut told me that I would constantly be changing my schedule, and thereby my committment, to them, and that wouldn't be fair. They promised they would do nothing to assist in my work paper endeavors, and I do not feel that is a proper exchange for my efforts, no matter how flexible their offer. The woman I interviewed with (an American) wrote back saying she really appreciated my honesty and my respectful response, and that she remained open to my coming in at any time should my situation change (become more regular) - or, just to contact her as a friend. I think it worked out well in the end - no bridges were burned, I did not "sell myself short," (a hard-earned lesson from EIS) and I still have my freedom to travel and explore.

October 03, 2006

Well, my camera stopped working (again) but Mika and I got too stuffed with salami, cheese, bread and :::hiccup::: wine at a local enoteca to actually make dinner anyways. My spaghetti and clams were excellent however, and I had enough leftovers to make two more meals, reheated the old-fashioned way, over an actual flame. Here is all the remained after lunch:

Domani - amatriciana!

In an effort to scrape up just a little non-food-related news, I was offered a volunteer position today at the non-profit where I interviewed last week. Every time i think of this interview I get more upset - how dare this guy imply that I am trying to do something slippery? He has every opportunity to hire me legally. In any case, I am torn because they said it could be on my terms - the number of hours and the expectation that when and if I do find work, my committment to them would obviously change - not to mention, it'd be a great opportunity to learn about, and contribute to, a good organization and meet new international people. On the other hand, why should they get me for free? I can't help but ask myself if they really did like me that much or if they thought that by hiring me they could afford a new espresso machine?

Domani - decision!